View Full Version : Converting OMC Points to electric
06-07-2008, 11:16 PM
I have a 1981 OMC 260 in which I am giving up on points and ordered the conversion kit to make it electronic, however with it all hooked up w/new cap It will not stay running, I can get it to run at high rpm's only. I followed directions on install, but I am scratching my head why it will not stay running. Even adjusting the rotor for timing No Luck!! Any Ideas??
06-10-2008, 08:58 AM
Have a couple questions for you. Did you run the boat this season in the water not on a hose before the conversion kit was installed and was it stored all winter long. If it will run at high rpms, then it should run at low rpms. With what info you have provided so far, it sounds like it may be a carb issue. It could be gummed up and needs rebuilt.
06-10-2008, 10:42 PM
Yes, I ran the boat a few times this year and it ran ok. I wanted to convert to electronic ignition so I don't have to mess with points anymore. The instructions said to attach wires to coil unless there is a primary ballast resistor, however I have not been able to find it if I have it. I connected wires to coil, and it will only run at a very high rpm then die when I slow it down, like it's loosing spark. Any idea where th resistor is located on the older omc motor?
06-11-2008, 11:31 AM
The resistor if your engine has one should be easily seen by the coil. Your engine may have a resistor wire for the coil. Here are just a few more questions about your problems.
·At what RPM range does the engine start to run bad?
·What RPM does the engine pick back up and run good?
·What part number did you purchase? ( we can double check to confirm you have the correct Part)Thanks,
06-12-2008, 02:30 PM
The motor runs only at 3500 rpm's or higher. The part I installed from you is electronic conversion kit SIE-18-5298. My motor is a 1981 OMC 260HP Model #990262K. Thanx.
06-13-2008, 02:27 PM
After some more research OMC used 2 different distributor manufactures for that year and both distributors take a different kit. Can you please tell us who made your distributor
Mallory or Prestolite?
06-13-2008, 09:55 PM
Yes, it has the clip on cap, (Prestolite) Thanx Again...
06-17-2008, 03:39 PM
You purchased the correct conversion kit, and it sounds like you installed it correctly. Performance diagnostics is a little challenging over a forum, but I would suggest next looking into possible carb issues.
06-25-2008, 02:07 PM
This may or may not help, I encountered issues converting my Volvo AQ125A to electronics. My biggest issue turned out to be my coil. It was running before I converted, and did not want to start after. I ohmed out my coil, it was a little out of spec, did not think it would be enough to make a difference. I replaced it anyways, as I was pulling out my hair trying to figure this out, and VROOOM fired right up.
Also, mine did not have an external ballast resistor, upon talking with peoples, only certain models used them, and it was to get the coil to within the correct specs..
Hope this helps, I know you are not working on a volvo, but how different can it really be, eh? You need timing, air, fuel and spark...
06-29-2008, 06:09 PM
Thanks for the advice, I happened to just figure the coil was not up to par yesterday, thanks again, I was so relieved when she finally fired up.
06-09-2009, 10:15 AM
I had the same problem. The OMC doesn't have a ballast resitor that you can identify, instead it has a resistor wire. So now what you need to do is cap off the two original wires that go to the positive post of the coil. Next run a ignition key controled 12v source directly to the positive terminal side of the coil. So to some it all up is: You need 12v to run an electronic ignition and less then 12v to run a points set up. i would also suggest that you get a flame thrower coil. Their less then 40 bucks. Good Luck