|SKU||Chain/Rode Length||Retail Price||Our Price||Savings|
|LEW-69000331||1/2" x 100' with 10' 5/16" G4 Chain||$164.28||$151.69||You Save 8%|
|LEW-69000332||1/2" x 150' with 10' of 1/4" G4 Chain||$215.94||$195.16||You Save 10%|
|LEW-69000334||1/2" x 200' with 10' of 1/4" G4 Chain||$315.90||$254.51||You Save 19%|
|LEW-69000335||1/2" x 300' with 15' of 1/4" G4 Chain||$430.43||$341.56||You Save 21%|
|LEW-69000339||9/16" x 200' with 20' 5/16" G4 Chain||$371.03||$298.54||You Save 20%|
|LEW-69000341||5/8" x 250' with 20' 5/16" G4 Chain||$603.85||$434.80||You Save 28%|
Lewmar Premium 3-Strand Anchor Rodes - Boat Marine Grade with Rope & Galvanized Chain
Lewmar's 3-strand rope is an economical choice for your windlass rode. Keep in mind, the windlass does not stow the rode in the anchor locker - gravity does. So make sure you have ample depth and volume in your anchor locker to accommodate the length of rode you have chosen.
There are several grades of 3-Strand nylon rope available. Always use a premium windlass grade rope in a windlass. Do not use economy 3-strands; the lay can be softer or harder than a proper windlass grade medium lay. When using ½" 3-strand nylon, double check that diameter is ½" (.500) in diameter or slightly larger. Economy 3-strands are generally less than ½" in diameter which work poorly in ½" gypsies.
3-Strand is typically 20-30% less expensive than premium plaited anchor line.
3-Strand line, when used in salt water, will stiffen over time. It can be soaked in a bucket of fresh water and fabric softener overnight (the longer the better) to bring back a more flexible condition. If this does not yield acceptable results, it should be replaced.
Lewmar anchor rodes are designed to complement the rope-chain gypsies fitted to all Lewmar Windlasses.
- Designed to complement the rope-chain gypsies fitted to all Lewmar windlasses
- 1/4" G4 - 5/16" Shackle
- Calibrated for even pitch
- Hot dip galvanized to minimize corrosion
- Welded for high strength
- Smooth rope-to-chain transition
- Helps your windlass operate smoothly
- Hand-sewn whipping guarantees against unraveling
Braid or Three-strand?
Nylon rope is available in both braided and three-strand twist construction. Each has its advantages.
Braided line looks "dressy." It has better abrasion resistance than three-strand, and typically it is slightly stronger. Braided line can be a good choice for tying up in your home dock, but because braided lines have a tendency to snag on rough pilings, I don't like braid for traveling dock lines. (As anchor line, however, braided nylon handles easier and stows more compactly and with less of a tendency to tangle, but at the cost of some elasticity.)
The main advantages of three-strand nylon for dock lines are that it doesn't snag, it is easy to splice, and it is considerably less costly than braided rope. Three-strand also has the significant advantage of being stretchier than braid. As a practical choice for dock lines, three-strand nylon is unbeatable. How often is the best also the least expensive?
Since larger diameter line takes longer to chafe through, a case might be made for selecting the largest diameter that will fit your cleats. But as the line diameter gets larger, it also becomes less elastic--making the "right" line diameter a bit of a Catch-22. The line diameters shown in the chart should deliver both sufficient strength and the beneficial effects of elasticity.
Line Diameter Boat Length 3/8" up to 25' 1/2" up to 35' 5/8" up to 45' 3/4" up to 55' 7/8" up to 65'
For dock lines that are a fixture of your permanent slip, work out the appropriate lengths using old line or light stuff (flag halyard)--making allowances for eye splices--then make up your new lines to those lengths. Nothing is more convenient than pulling into your slip and simply dropping eyes over the mooring cleats. If your dock is fixed--not floating--be sure to leave a little extra length for unusually high or low tides.
For a set of dock lines that travel with the boat, I like lines equal to the length of the boat. It is essential for spring lines to be this long. You can get away with shorter bow and stern lines, but I don't like to sort through my dock lines to place a short one here and a long one there. In a rush, I can grab the one on top and know that it will be long enough. The inconvenience of a line that is too long is far less than one that is too short.
|Manufacture Part Number||69000332.1,LEW-69000331,LEW-69000332,LEW-69000334,LEW-69000335,LEW-69000339,LEW-69000341|
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How to choose the right windlass for your boat
1. What size windlass would best suit my boat?
Use our windlass selection chart found on page 2 to determine the general size of windlass to be fitted to your boat by using length and displacement. For example, if you have a 10m (33 ft) boat, typically a 270kg (600 lb) pull windlass would be selected. The rule to crosscheck your windlass selection is to add the total weight of the chain and the weight of the anchor together. Rope is very light and does not affect the actual lifting performance of the windlass, but can be factored in. For safe cruising in all types of conditions and sea areas, Lewmar recommends that you multiply the total weight of your anchor and chain x4 (x2 for V6 to V12). This number should be less than the maximum pull of the windlass you have selected. Should your findings be at or more than the maximum pull, select the next largest windlass. The windlass does not stow the anchor rode in the locker. Gravity stows the rode in the locker. There must be a free and clear area under the hawse pipe for the incoming rode to lie; if not, the rode will jam. Your windlass is a retrieval device; the windlass retrieves the anchor and rode. A windlass is not a high-load-bearing device. When at anchor your rode should be secured to a chain stopper, a cleat or other mooring point on the bow.
2. How long is the anchor rode I wish to use, and will the windlass put the entire rode into my locker?
Begin by examining the depth of the anchor locker to determine the fall that is available. The fall is the vertical distance between the top of the anchor locker and the top of the anchor rode when the entire rode is completely stored inside. This measurement is important in determining whether your boat will be best suited for a vertical or horizontal windlass. Do not stow the rode inside the anchor locker; gravity stows the rode. Y You must know how much rode will fit into your locker by gravity. There has to be a free and clear area under the hawse pipe for the incoming rode. Otherwise you will have to comb the rode back, keeping a clear and free space under the hawse pipe while retrieving the anchor.
- The key features of Horizontal Windlasses are:
- • Most of the windlass unit is on the deck
- • Easy installation
- • Good for boats with small anchor lockers
- • Anchor rode enters the gypsy, makes a 90° turn and feeds into the anchor locker
- • Minimum fall of 304mm (12") is recommended in order to have
- enough gravity to pull the rode down into the locker
- The key features of Vertical Windlasses are:
- • More of the unit is hidden below deck
- • Suitable for large anchor lockers
- • Anchor rode makes a 180° wrap around the gypsy providing more security
- • Minimum fall of 406mm (18") is recommended in order to have enough gravity to pull the rode down into the locker
3. How much pulling power should my windlass have?
Having selected a vertical or horizontal windlass and determined the size required using the chart on page 2, you can cross-check by using the following formula:
Total weight of ground tackle(anchor & rode) = Pulling power required by the Windlass