Installing an anchor windlass is one of the most impactful upgrades you can make to your boat’s anchoring system. A correctly installed windlass provides smoother deployment, safer retrieval, and consistent performance in a wide range of conditions. This step-by-step guide walks you through planning, measuring, mounting, wiring, and testing a new anchor windlass to ensure a reliable and long-lasting installation.
Before You Begin
Tools & Materials You’ll Need
- Drill and assorted drill bits
- Hole saw (size depends on motor shaft/cable pass-through)
- Marine-grade wiring, terminals, and heat shrink
- Backing plate (aluminum, stainless steel, or G-10)
- Marine-grade sealant (3M 4200 or 4000UV)
- Appropriate breaker or fuse
- Rope/chain rode matched to your gypsy (anchor rodes)
- Safety glasses and gloves
If you're replacing or upgrading your bow hardware, confirm your setup with: Anchor Rollers & Mounts
Step 1: Choose the Correct Windlass Location
The windlass must be mounted where it can operate without binding, jumping, or causing rode jams.
Key Placement Requirements
- The windlass must align directly with the bow roller.
- The rode must feed straight onto the gypsy with no side angles.
- The anchor locker must allow adequate fall distance (typically 12–18 inches or more).
- The deck must be strong enough for the load and reinforced with a backing plate.
How to Check Rode Fall
- Open the anchor locker.
- Measure from the deck surface to the bottom of the locker.
- Confirm the rode can fall freely without stacking.
If fall distance is limited, consider a horizontal windlass for shallow lockers or a vertical windlass for deeper lockers.
Step 2: Mark and Drill the Mounting Holes
Most windlasses include a mounting template.
- Tape the template to the deck in the chosen location.
- Double-check alignment with the bow roller.
- Mark each stud hole and the central shaft/pass-through hole.
- Drill small pilot holes first.
- Use a hole saw to cut the main pass-through opening.
Pro Tip
Apply painter’s tape over the drilling area to help minimize gelcoat chipping.
Step 3: Install the Backing Plate
Windlasses create significant mechanical loads, so a backing plate is essential for long-term durability.
Backing Plate Installation
- Cut the plate to match the windlass base footprint.
- Position it beneath the mounting holes inside the anchor locker.
- Dry-fit the windlass to confirm alignment before sealing.
- If drilling through cored fiberglass, seal exposed core edges with epoxy.
Step 4: Mount the Windlass to the Deck
- Apply marine sealant around each hole and on the underside of the windlass base.
- Set the windlass into position on the deck.
- Insert mounting studs and secure the nuts from below deck.
- Tighten hardware evenly to avoid distorting the deck surface.
Sealant Selection
Use a removable sealant such as 3M 4000UV or 4200. Permanent adhesives like 3M 5200 can make future removal extremely difficult.
Step 5: Route and Connect the Electrical Wiring
Proper wiring is critical for safe, reliable windlass operation.
Basic Windlass Circuit
Battery → Circuit Breaker → Windlass Motor
Optional components may include a solenoid, helm switch, foot switches, or a wireless remote.
You can find compatible electrical components here: Switches & Solenoids
Electrical Guidelines
- Use marine-grade tinned copper wire.
- Follow the manufacturer’s wire gauge chart for total run length.
- Keep cable runs as short and direct as possible to reduce voltage drop.
- Secure wiring away from heat sources and sharp edges.
- Waterproof all terminals with heat shrink and proper crimping.
Circuit Breaker Placement
Install the breaker close to the battery, following ABYC or manufacturer recommendations (typically within 7–40 inches).
Step 6: Install Foot Switches or Helm Controls (Optional)
Foot Switches
- Mount switches near the windlass where they can be operated safely.
- Seal all wiring pass-throughs with marine sealant.
- Connect the switches to the solenoid or motor according to the wiring diagram.
Helm Controls
- Route control wiring to the helm or dash panel.
- Follow model-specific wiring diagrams carefully.
- Test continuity and function before securing paneling.
Step 7: Load and Test the Rode
Your rode must match your windlass gypsy for smooth operation. Use high-quality rope and chain such as:
Load the Rode
- Feed the rope and chain onto the gypsy.
- Verify that the chain engages cleanly in the gypsy pockets.
- Confirm that the rope-to-chain splice passes smoothly (for combination rodes).
Test Operation
- Test downward deployment.
- Test upward retrieval.
- Check that the chain does not jump, skip, or grind.
- Ensure that the rode falls freely into the anchor locker without excessive piling.
If the rode stacks up, redistribute it by hand or consider adding a rode weight to improve fall.
Step 8: Final Checks and Maintenance Tips
Final Installation Checklist
- Windlass aligned correctly with the bow roller
- All mounting bolts tightened and sealed
- Circuit breaker installed near the battery
- Wiring sized and routed correctly
- Rode feeds smoothly onto and off the gypsy
- No leaks around the mounting area
Ongoing Maintenance
- Rinse the windlass with fresh water after each trip.
- Inspect wiring and connections annually.
- Grease or service the gearbox if required by the manufacturer.
- Check the gypsy and clutch components for wear.
- Replace worn switches or solenoids as needed.
If you need a secondary or backup solution for specific setups, consider: Anchor Mates & Winches
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I install a windlass on any bow roller?
Not always. The bow roller must align the rode straight with the windlass gypsy. In some cases, upgrading to a properly positioned roller is recommended for smooth operation.
Do I need a vertical or horizontal windlass?
The choice depends largely on anchor locker depth and available space. Deep lockers typically favor vertical windlasses, while shallow or tight lockers often require horizontal models.
How much fall distance do I need for the rode?
Most rope/chain combinations need at least 12–18 inches of fall to coil properly. All-chain rodes generally require more depth to prevent stacking and jams.
Do I really need a backing plate?
Yes. A backing plate spreads the load over a larger area of the deck structure and helps prevent damage or stress cracking under heavy loads.
Can I wire a windlass without a solenoid?
Some small systems can be wired directly, but most installations benefit from a solenoid for safe, reliable switching and reduced current at the control switches. Always follow the manufacturer’s wiring recommendations.